Tahona’s head is shaved — a
ritual in the remand home that discourages lice but also creates
an air of brutality.
I first
met him among a pathetic assortment of juvenile offenders, stripped
to the waist and lined-up outside the barred windows of the
warden’s office. A cripple shuffles into place on twisted legs.
Another has chest and arms covered by the festering scabs of a skin
parasite. The nipples of a third pout like the breasts of a young
girl.
Tahona,
stiff and solemn on parade, is an obvious leader. Taller than the
rest, his lean, hard body is unblemished except for pale
patches
on his forehead, elbow and waist —the scars from a road accident.
Dismissed
from our official scrutiny and set to work with the rest, he quickly
assumes command. He is subtle but deliberate. Using
just a sharp word or a rough gesture.
But in
court Tahona reassumes a submissive, respectful stance. He stands
with his chest to the rail of the dock, wearing borrowed
clothes
less
torn than his own. His hands clench and unclench behind him,
head slightly to one side, eyes fixed on the magistrate. The
charge
is serious: theft,
with the probation officer recommending two years detention.
And Tahona has two previous convictions — for ‘Trading without a licence’ says
the court report. Tahona is a businessman — he sells
peanuts on the streets.
He has
no friends in the courtroom. Even his mother doesn’t know
that he’s in trouble.
He left
his home in the Usambara mountains, far to the north, more than two
years ago. ‘My mother tells us that me and my twin sister
were nearly killed at birth’, remembers Tahona ‘Twins were
a bad omen and my father wanted us dead. My mother saved us by running
away’.
None
of the family ever travelled farther than ten miles to the local
market. Each morning Tahona watered the cows
before
the
long walk
to school. Most evenings he helped his mother on their
tiny shamba — a
patch of land on the hillside above their hut growing beans and bananas,
as well as sugar cane to sell. ‘My mother carries the cane to
market’ says Tahona ‘She would never tell us how much she
got for it, but it couldn’t be much.
Money
is very difficult to get round there.’
‘In
the villages you start working at birth and keep on working. I’ve
never thought of becoming rich, but I know that if
you stay in the country, you’re lucky to have a hundred shillings
in your pocket’ When
Tahona left home he had less than a shilling.
 |
| At
a shilling a packet, Tahona's peanuts earn enough
for him to live. Photo: Chris Sheppard |
|
|
Dar es
Salaam, the city that he wanted to make his home, houses half of
Tanzania’s urban population. Its handful of skyscrapers mingle
untidily with the crumbling relics of German
colonialism on the harbour front and the scruffy Muslim facades
of the commercial
quarter.
In Kariakoo
the skyline descends to a single storey. This for most people is
the heart of the city— and the place the migrants head
for. Its central market place is surrounded by
row upon row of brick and tin houses. Each one is a shop or a business
or a restaurant. Sometimes
all three.
People
live around packed-earth courtyards at the back and work on tiny
raised verandahs at
the front.
Here
every local
demand
is met
and every spare penny of factory or office
wages is recycled. Shoe makers, tailors, bicycle repairers,
motor mechanics — all work
on dusty pavements, sheltering where they can
from the withering sun.
It was
the eager activity of Kariakoo and its
noisy, drunken bars that first welcomed Tahona
to the
city. But it has
entertainment too, and
shops filled with things you never see outside. ‘You don’t
want to go back to the village,’ he says, ‘when you have
seen Dares Salaarn’.
Tahona
had no chance of a job with a regular wage. There are plenty’ of
factories, but each has a queue of idle
men at its gates.
Or occasionally
there is just a sign: Hakuna
Kazi — No Work. When I see that sign’, says Tahona, ‘I
don’t even bother to go to the
gate.
Tanzania
has a desperate shortage of
foreign exchange — never
enough to meet the demand for spare
parts and raw materials. And in the
past years many factories have been
laying-off workers. Machines
in the shoe factory are silent because
there is no rubber, in the cigarette
factory because there is no paper.
With
no school-leaving certificate in a country of free primary education,
Tahona
had to
get wise quickly. ‘I can get space to sleep from
someone who wants a skivvy’, he says. And he gets a few shillings
from shopkeepers wanting their goods hawked —illegally — round
the streets. But the rewards are meagre and the jobs thankless. ‘If
you get caught by the police’ he adds ‘the employer says
you’re lying and have stolen his money’. What he wanted
was to work on his own.
‘I
heard about the money you can make from peanuts. So I decided to
try it. You need about 15 shillings (two dollars) for your first
kilo
of peanuts, and then you must
find somewhere to prepare them. That means washing, salting, roasting
in hot sand over a fire, then sieving
and packing in small plastic
bags. You can get about 40 bags from a kilo and each one sells for
a shilling.’
‘Independence
Avenue has plenty of customers,’ says Tahona, ‘but
I like to find a place where
I can sit and sell in peace.’ Sell
in busy streets or with other
boys and you are easily spotted. ‘Lots
of people want to buy from
us, but the city council says that we are dirty and cause health
problems’. So selling peanuts is illegal.
Most of the time the police
ignore peanut boys, but once in a while there’s a clean-up
campaign. Then they swoop.
‘If
the police catch you’, says Tahona, 'You can try to give them
money. But the best thing
is to run’. Tahona ran away more than
once. His favourite spot
at a crossroads outside the Egypt Air office offers good trade plus
plenty of escape routes. The first time he was
caught he had only sold three
packets — he didn’t see them
coming.
 |
| Arrested
- twice for 'trading without a licence', once
for stealing. Photo: Chris Sheeppard |
|
|
The penalty
was four strokes of the cane. ‘All your clothes are
taken off, Then they put spirit on, cover you with a cloth and start
hitting. It really hurts’.
Tahona
could have gone home. He saved 70 shillings
to
send to his
twin
sister when
she had a baby.
And he talks
about
his’ responsibility
as the only son. But he has found a way to live in the city — as
a peanut boy and perpetual
juvenile.
It doesn’t pay to count the passing years, when you’re
likely to end up in
court only his mother knows how old he is.
Now Tahona
finds himself in the dock again.
The woman whose
house
he lives
in says
he has stolen
her clothes.
She has
two witnesses.
Both
say this is not the
first time. ‘Why didn’t you stop me
before?’ argues
Tahona, angry with
his accuser.
On each
side of the
magistrate sits
an elderly assessor.
Before them
they have
the Court
Report ‘Tahona
Silas. aged 14.
Charged twice with
trading without
a licence. Found
guilty and caned.
The parents
are simple peasants
living in Lushoto
District. The accused
lives with friends
and contributes
nothing to their
daily bread. Such
a habit
coupled with the
city environment
attracts him to
crime.
As the
magistrate sums up. Tahona
straightens his
head
and slightly
lifts his chin.
The open courtroom
is
surrounded by
the noise
of Kariakoo traffic.
Inside everyone
is silent. A
policeman steps
forward to the
dock. ‘Insufficient evidence,’ says the magistrate, ‘Not
guilty’.
Worth
reading on...
GLOBAL ISSUES
World
Hunger, Ten Myths by Lappé and Collins.
The Institute for Food and Development Policy, 2588 Mission
Street San Francisco, Ca 94110. 1979. In the UK from TWP, 151 Stratford
Rd, Birmingham B11 1RD. A snappy 68 page response to the most
important questions you are likely to ask — or be asked — about
world poverty. It is by the same authors as Food First, still
the best book on food, published by Ballantine (US) and Souvenir
Press (UK).
The Children of Sanchez by Oscar Lewis, Vintage
Books, New York and Penguin Classics in the UK 1961. One of the finest books
ever written on the struggle to make a living in a Third World
city. The views and stories of each member of a Mexico City family
are faithfully recorded to produce a gripping account of daily
life.
The Limits to Medicine by Ivan Illich. Marion
Boyers. 1976. Startling,
infuriating and occasionally unbelievable, this is a fiercely
critical assessment of health systems in both rich and poor worlds.
There’s no denying the wealth of supporting evidence that
he produces, though you may find his central conclusion — that
doctors are a health hazard— a bit difficult to swallow.
The Sisterhood of Man by Kathleen Newland. World
watch, New York 1979. A global perspective on the problems
of women. Comprehensive and easy to read.
Soft Energy Paths — Towards a Durable Peace by
Amory Lovins.
Ballinger in the US and Macdonald and Evans in the UK. One
of the most important books from a geru of the alternative energy
lobby. His revolutionary ideas on new energy sources have been
a subject of great controversy among the experts.
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