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The
UAE seems, at first glance, to have got rather left behind in the
process of twentieth-century state-formation. When the British departed
in December 1971, they left behind seven little sheikhdoms whose
territories consisted almost entirely of desert, whose combined
population numbered barely quarter of a million, and whose hereditary
rulers had a history of mutual suspicion and antagonism.
Eighteen
years on, the system of feudal emirs remains in place, albeit with
the trappings of a modern state and its requisite bureaucracy superimposed.
Each emirate is an autonomous entity. Each emir is a member of the
UAE Supreme Council which rules the state by decree, unhindered
by anything more democratic than a Federal National Council whose
40 members are appointed by - you guessed it - the emirs.
The
emirates are theoretically equal within the Union. In practice,
the biggest, most populous and wealthiest - Abu Dhabi - is the most
powerful. Dubai comes second in the hierarchy and Sharjah third,
with the other four - Ras al-Khaimah, Ajman, Fujairah and Umm al-Qaiwain
- depending, in effect, on the largesse of the big three to stay
afloat.
It
is this largesse which is the key to the UAE's existence - Abu Dhabi
and Dubai, and possibly Sharjah, could survive economically as single
entities, the others could not; the UAE exists because the smaller
emirates are subsidized by the big ones.
It
is questionable whether the UAE would have survived the turbulence
of its early years without the rise in world oil prices in 1973,
a little over a year after it came into being. Oil is very much
the mainstay of the UAE's economy. Abu Dhabi has by far the most
of it, Dubai and Sharjah have modest reserves and all the smaller
emirates, except Fujairah, have at least a trickle.

Amedeo Vergani
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But
apart from oil, virtually everything else of economic significance
in the UAE has to be imported. Not only are food, consumer goods,
labour and the raw materials used in industrial production imported;
a great many of the companies which operate here, especially Dubai's
Jabal Ali duty-free industrial zone, are from outside the country.
The
UAE's reliance on foreign imports, particularly of people, has had
the most profound effect on the character of the place. The British
colonial administration formally defined the borders of each emirate
for the first time in 1951 after a diplomat had travelled around
the country by camel asking the Bedouin tribes which sheikh they
owed allegiance to. The few towns in those days were mostly small
ports; there was little sign of affluence and foreign visitors were
a rarity.
But
the last 20 years in particular have seen a spectacular transformation.
Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Sharjah have large urban centres, dominated
by sleek, decidedly non-Middle Eastern architecture. Each emirate
has an international airport and tourist facilities, as well as
a huge expatriate population, most of it from the Indian sub-continent.
Indigenous Arabs now form a little under a quarter of the UAE's
2.2 million inhabitants. Apart from the fact that none of the taxi
drivers appear to know any street names, perhaps what most strikes
the visitor to many quarters of Abu Dhabi or Dubai is the sound
of Urdu, rather than Arabic, on the streets. And perhaps the most
remarkable thing about Sharjah, apart from the prostitutes who fly
in on charter flights from the former Soviet Union, is its cricket
ground, which plays host to international tournaments.
The
indigenous Arabs have little interest in cricket, but they get the
best of everything else. Health services and education are free
for citizens (few migrant workers qualify). Their per-capita income
is among the highest in the world.
Politics
is largely a matter for the ruling families. There is no representation,
no organized labour and little redress for the grievances of expatriates
in a judicial system which has often caught the eye of international
human-rights organizations. Foreign labourers form the vast majority
of those on the receiving end of such punishments as public flogging
and beheading.
Steve
Sherman

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