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Rwanda
In the verdant mountains of Africa’s
Great Lakes region, amidst the bustle and good nature of its most
densely populated nation, visions of slaughter don’t readily
come to mind. In Rwanda, though, where skeletal remains from the
20th century’s last genocide continue to be found, a visitor
naturally seeks signs.
The horrors of April-July 1994 – when almost a million ethnic
Tutsis and politically moderate Hutus were massacred in a mere
100 days – were the atrocious fruit of first German then
Belgian colonization. The Belgians, who favoured Tutsis in their
administration, introduced ethnic identity cards based on dubious
notions of history and culture. The distinction became fixed in
stone.
Hutus seized power in 1959, declaring independence
from Belgium in 1962. In 1973, the father of Hutu nationalism,
Gregoire Kayibanda,
was ousted by military officer Juvenal Habyarimana, around whom
extremist ideologies coalesced. In response to anti-Tutsi pogroms,
the Tutsi-dominated Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) began launching
attacks from neighbouring Uganda in 1990. On 6 April 1994, amid
wrangling over a stalled peace agreement, a plane carrying President
Habyarimana was shot down, triggering the genocide. Extremist militia,
army troops and presidential guards led the carnage, but countless
ordinary Rwandans joined in – armed with machetes, hoes and
axes – encouraged by virulent hate radio.
Rwanda’s journey from appalling violence to apparent harmony
is due in large part to the leadership of Paul Kagame, the US-trained
RPF chief who defeated Hutu forces in early July 1994. Previously
Vice-President and Defence Minister, Kagame was elected President
in August 2003, promising multi-party democracy and ‘Rwandicity’ – a
new notion of Rwandan nationalism cleansed of ethnic distinctions.
Kagame seems to have succeeded. Rwanda has
become one of those stable African countries North Americans and
Europeans like to
praise. In his sober, expressionless way, Kagame promotes good
governance and economic liberalization. Computers and the internet
proliferate. The airwaves are open to private broadcasters. A stock
market is in the works.
But all is not well in this ‘land of a thousand hills’.
Kagame stifles political opposition, critics say. Some worry he’s
emulating his mentor, Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni, who came
as a liberator but now refuses to step aside. Entrepreneurship
grows but over half the nation lives in poverty. The country's
healthcare system is improving, but 20 per cent of children die
young.
Meanwhile, although Rwanda’s borders
are safer than those of its neighbours, Rwandan troops have intervened
twice in eastern
Congo (DRC) since 1994 to deal with remnant Hutu militia and renegade
soldiers.
Inside Rwanda – where the horrors of genocide still resonate – the
Government has revived the traditional gacaca system of restorative
justice. These grassroots village courts (gacaca means grass) were
set up to deal with the 100,000 people behind bars on genocide
charges and render decisions vital to national reconciliation and
healing.
But here again, worrisome signs abound.
Ideological critics have sown doubt about government intentions.
In response to anti-gacaca
rumours, thousands of suspects have refused to testify or fled
the country in fear. Genocide survivors and witnesses have reportedly
been intimidated or killed by extremist Hutus.
And as the gacaca process unfolds, Rwanda’s
deep scars have been revealed. Evidence-gathering sessions are
routinely disrupted
by the outbursts of trauma victims. Women who witnessed the slaughter
of their families before being gang-raped are carried out in hysterics.
In the pleasant months between April and early July, their wails
of torment testify to the horrors this beautiful land and gracious
people have witnessed.
Dave Kattenburg | 
